How to Exfoliate the Right Way: Chemical vs. Physical, By Skin Type
Summary
Exfoliation is what clears away dead skin cells and everyday buildup sitting on the surface of our skin. Our skin already does this on its own — the process is called “desquamation”, and it naturally sheds dead cells from the outermost layer -the epidermis, over about 21 to 28 days. Exfoliating products just speed that process along, and they come in two forms: chemical and physical (manual scrubs). For your face and neck, stick to chemical exfoliants regardless of your skin type — physical exfoliants are too abrasive, though they’re fine for the body.
Table of Contents
The 3 Types of Chemical Exfoliants: AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs
Chemical exfoliants fall into three main categories, and each works a little differently.
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. Glycolic acid is the strongest of the three because its molecules are the smallest, letting it penetrate the deepest. Lactic acid has the most noticeable brightening effect, and mandelic acid has the largest molecule size, so it stays closer to the surface of the skin.
For hydrating and anti-aging benefits, AHAs are the category to reach for:
- Lactic acid: best for brightening skin.
- Glycolic acid: the most powerful option, good for hyperpigmentation.
- Mandelic acid: a gentler AHA suited to sensitive skin.
BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) are better suited to clearing pores and fighting acne. Salicylic acid is the standout here — if you’re acne-prone, this is your go-to.
PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are the gentlest option, essentially a softer version of AHAs, making them a good fit for sensitive skin. Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid fall into this category.
Ground Rules for Exfoliating Safely
- Exfoliate at night, since exfoliation increases your skin’s sensitivity to the sun.
- Skip exfoliating every single night — over-exfoliating can lead to inflammation.
- Adjust your exfoliation routine as the seasons change.
- Always follow up with sunscreen the next day.
Shopping for an Exfoliant, By Skin Type
A few things to keep in mind before you buy: look for leave-on formulations like toners, peel pads, or serums; if you’re dealing with more than one skin concern, choose a product that blends multiple chemical exfoliants; and be cautious with physical exfoliants — steer clear of scrubs and microbeads altogether.
- Oily skin: go for a BHA (salicylic acid, 0.5%–10%) in a liquid exfoliant or toner pad.
- Sensitive skin: go for a PHA (gluconolactone or mandelic acid) in a cream or serum.
- Dry skin: go for an AHA or PHA — look for lactic acid (5%–10%), mandelic acid, or gluconolactone in a serum or cream.
- Combination skin: go for a blend of AHA and BHA — look for glycolic acid (4%–7%) and salicylic acid (0.5%–1%) in a toner or serum.
